copper pipe 6mm and 10mm

[dsc]

Hi guys,

does anyone know where I can get copper pipes in sizes 6mm and 10mm sold by the meter? I can only find larger lengths, like 25m reels or 10mm reels and I don't really need that much.

The reason I'm asking is because I need to reroute some pipes in the machine in order to mount a different pressure gauge.

Thanks for any tips.

Regards,
dsc.

[CakeBoy]

Try here, they have 10mm by the metre. Also scroll down on this page here where they have both sizes by the metre. It might also be worth trying any local building or plumbing merchants as they may have a roll that they cut shorter lengths from to order

[dsc]

Hi Cakes,

thanks for the links, I will ask around the town to see if anyone sells shorter lengths.

In addition does anyone here know if I can use parts 700000 and 527854 from this page:

http://www.espressoparts.co.uk/fittings.asp

to make fittings on copper pipes without any soldering? Are those compression fittings or something else?

Regards,
dsc.

[bruceb]

They don't look like compression fittings. It looks like you have to put 700000 onto the tubing and then solder 527854 onto the end. That's a standard copper tubing connector, I think.

BTW, I buy short lengths of copper tubing from my local, friendly plumber. Sometimes he even gives them to me for free.

[dsc]

Hi Bruce,

thanks for the tip, I thought it might be a normal solder-in type of fitting. Have you ever soldered any plumbing fittings? I'm curious whether I can use one of those small pen-sized blowtorches to do it, or do I need something bigger? To be honest I'd prefer to use compression fittings because I will have to buy a whole load of stuff to solder two stupid tubes (flux, solder, blowtorch).

If only there was an easier way to reroute that damn hot water pipe:|

Regards,
dsc.

[bruceb]

Soldering fittings is no problem at all. You do need to clean and burnish the end of the pipe and inside of the fitting with emery cloth or Scotchbrite, use a flux (soldering paste) and heat with a small blowtorch. You then touch the end of the solder to the joint between the fitting and the pipe and capillary action carries the solder down into the joint. As a rule of thumb you use a length of solder equal to the diameter of the tubing, but if more gets melted it isn't a prolbm. You just wipe it off the joint because it runs down the side. Keep a damp cloth on hand to wipe and cool the joint, but you must make sure the joint and fitting don't move until they are cool or you will have a "cold solder joint." It's harder to explain than to do. There're probably videos on Youtube demonstrating. Swage or compression fittings need expensive tools to attach. They're definitely not worth it if you only have a few joints.

[dsc]

Hi Bruce,

thanks for the tips, it indeed looked easy when I was reading various tutorials online. I guess I'll have to get myself a blowtorch and some solder and give this a try.

Regards,
dsc.

EDIT:

anyone knows if this is going to be enough:



?

[dsc]

Hi again,

well apparently Elektra decided that users won't be able to use different gauges and made the cutout 62mm instead of 63mm which is the industrial standard. So much for bending pipes...

Anyway I decided to switch to a digital measurement and will be using a pressure transducer coupled with a PID controller for display.

Regards,
dsc.

[bruceb]

Hi Bruce,

thanks for the tips, it indeed looked easy when I was reading various tutorials online. I guess I'll have to get myself a blowtorch and some solder and give this a try.

Regards,
dsc.

EDIT:

anyone knows if this is going to be enough:


?

Yes, that will work fine for a few joints. The tank won't last too long, but you won't need much anyway. Be aware that when you turn off the gas the flame doesn't always immediately go out. People tend to twist the valve so firmly in order to make the flame go out that they wreck the valve or break the handle. Just turn it off and slowly the flame will go out.