How safe is running water through a zinc housing?

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How safe is running water through a zinc housing?

Postby simonp » Mon Sep 12, 2005 3:36 pm

I've been looking at pressure relief valves again, and have found a cheapish pneumatic one, but the housing is made of zinc. I have no idea wether zinc would be safe to run water to the boiler through, so was hoping someone here can enlighten me.
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Postby matts » Mon Sep 12, 2005 6:52 pm

Sorry, what for? Are you talking about plumbing in a machine

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Postby simonp » Mon Sep 12, 2005 9:44 pm

No, it is for giving accurate settable pressure to the boiler from the pump, similar to what Greg Scace did, but I'm looking for a cheaper option.
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Mazzer Mini
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Hottop updated to a B with Compuetr control
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Postby aloening » Tue Sep 13, 2005 7:32 pm

If you live in an area with acidic water then the Zinc will corrode pretty fast. So that means Zinc in your coffee and boiler. In a hard water area you will get a lot of deposits in the valve which will eventually stop working.

Also check the pressure relief arrangements - if you pressurise the boiler and then heat it up without allowing some water out you will most likely crack the boiler or at least cause some leaks somewhere.

There is a good reason that these machines use brass and stainless steel components. My first espresso machine (A Gaggia domestic of about 1987 vintage) lasted around 9 months before the zinc boiler corroded away. Current Isomac Tea is all SS - so no worries.

Go for SS every time!

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Postby simonp » Tue Sep 13, 2005 10:02 pm

aloening wrote:If you live in an area with acidic water then the Zinc will corrode pretty fast. So that means Zinc in your coffee and boiler. In a hard water area you will get a lot of deposits in the valve which will eventually stop working.

Also check the pressure relief arrangements - if you pressurise the boiler and then heat it up without allowing some water out you will most likely crack the boiler or at least cause some leaks somewhere.

There is a good reason that these machines use brass and stainless steel components. My first espresso machine (A Gaggia domestic of about 1987 vintage) lasted around 9 months before the zinc boiler corroded away. Current Isomac Tea is all SS - so no worries.

Go for SS every time!

Adrian


I live in a hard water area, so it sounds like deposits would be the main worry.

The valve would go between the pump and the boiler (as does the current one, effectively) so the boiler is only ever under pressure during pumping. The valve would just open at the set pressure (around 9 bar) which would vent the excess back to the water tank (again as doe sthe current non-adjustable one).

Yes, stainless steel would be better, but I am weighing up the price difference between £105 and £20, hence my interest.
Profitec 700 dual boiler
Isomac Rituale
Mazzer Mini
Mahlkonig Vario
Chemex
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2 Bodum press pots
Hottop updated to a B with Compuetr control
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Postby simonp » Tue Sep 13, 2005 10:04 pm

Sorry for the multiple posts, I kept getting a PHP fail message, so thought it hadn't gone through.
Profitec 700 dual boiler
Isomac Rituale
Mazzer Mini
Mahlkonig Vario
Chemex
Aeropress
2 Bodum press pots
Hottop updated to a B with Compuetr control
Imex roaster, dimmer mod on heater (under spare bed)
Rival popper, with split motor and dimmer mod on heater (retired)
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Postby aloening » Sun Oct 02, 2005 7:30 pm

Hi Simon,

Which valves are you looking at - seems the SS valve is very expensive. There is likley to be a better solution.
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Postby simonp » Sun Oct 02, 2005 11:32 pm

Hi,

I am just after a settable pressure relief valve, the one in the Silvia can only be adjusted by latering the thickness (i.e. sanding it thinner!) of an additional copper washer. The valves I was looking at are for air really, but should also work with water, as the inlet is cold water. It is possible a brass valve from another espresso machine would also work, but it is finding a part number etc that is tricky,
Profitec 700 dual boiler
Isomac Rituale
Mazzer Mini
Mahlkonig Vario
Chemex
Aeropress
2 Bodum press pots
Hottop updated to a B with Compuetr control
Imex roaster, dimmer mod on heater (under spare bed)
Rival popper, with split motor and dimmer mod on heater (retired)
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Postby motoman » Mon Oct 03, 2005 6:34 am

Simon, why are you not using filtered water? Not only will it prevent corrosion it will also make the coffee taste better. I have a filter kettle and in 3 years there is no sign of scale at all and I live in a hard water area too.
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Postby quink » Mon Oct 03, 2005 2:37 pm

motoman wrote: I have a filter kettle and in 3 years there is no sign of scale at all and I live in a hard water area too.


I'm going to have to second this, nothing but britta filtered water in my kettle and no scale whatsoever and it must be 3 years old by now. Although I cant taste any difference in the water its obviously doing something.
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Postby simonp » Mon Oct 03, 2005 3:05 pm

I do use filtered water through a Britta filter, but it only takes out some of the hardness, there is still a reasonable ammount there. The kettle still has to be de-scaled every now and then.
Profitec 700 dual boiler
Isomac Rituale
Mazzer Mini
Mahlkonig Vario
Chemex
Aeropress
2 Bodum press pots
Hottop updated to a B with Compuetr control
Imex roaster, dimmer mod on heater (under spare bed)
Rival popper, with split motor and dimmer mod on heater (retired)
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Postby aloening » Mon Oct 03, 2005 5:32 pm

The effectiveness of filters depends greatly on the hardness of the water. Where I live the water is so soft there is no deposits in my kettle with 12 years use - so far. In some other areas an ion exchange resin will be used up in weeks. Thus I have not yhet bothered to replace the filter that my Tea came with.

Simon - I will have a quick look through some of my sources for a suitable valve.
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Postby fiend » Mon Oct 03, 2005 8:35 pm

I live in London, and my kettle is pretty crusty. Apparently the water is a lot softer in the South West and in Scotland, so I get Scottish bottled water from Tesco. I just checked through my last bill, and 6 2 litre bottles (12 litres total) from Perthshire cost £1.88. That's quite a few ristrettos in there, and there doesn't seem to be any limescale buildup inside my machine.
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Postby simonp » Mon Oct 03, 2005 10:27 pm

In Wiltshire a lot of the water comes from underground wells, and is very hard, so yes the ammount the filter takes out still leaves quite a lot of harness in, but at least this helps the taste of the coffee, as I understand that too soft water gives a poor taste.
Profitec 700 dual boiler
Isomac Rituale
Mazzer Mini
Mahlkonig Vario
Chemex
Aeropress
2 Bodum press pots
Hottop updated to a B with Compuetr control
Imex roaster, dimmer mod on heater (under spare bed)
Rival popper, with split motor and dimmer mod on heater (retired)
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Postby quink » Tue Oct 04, 2005 12:15 am

simonp wrote: but at least this helps the taste of the coffee, as I understand that too soft water gives a poor taste.


I can notice the difference at work but its probably from a different reservoir as it 25 miles away, not filtered and preground beans doesn't help. The kind of taste that makes you think, whats the point of all the effort, but the guys at work really love it when I bring it in.
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