Because it’s too wet without one!
I realize this post may have been initiated before on the forum so I apologize if that’s the case, I was just wondering where people go for great cup of coffee and something one the side? In Portugal you can find good coffee almost everywhere since it’s a huge part of the culture here, but there are some of the more famous or special places with a bit extra on offer (and I still have many more to discover). Some of these are very well known but the best places I know around the greater lisbon area:
Pasteis De Belém – In Belém, near Lisbon centre, this is one of Lisbon’s most famous pastry shops/cafés. It’s been open for nearly 100 years and still remains very active sometimes packed with people when an event is on nearby (going there after the Lisbon-Dakar race start, it took me forever to get to the counter). Its signature pastry the “Pastél de Belém” looks exactly like the “pastél de nata” but I keep getting told they’re just not the same thing they’re a bit like tarts with a crunchy outer part and a custardy middle. You can either buy them individually, take a seat with a cup of coffee and relax or you can take a few boxes (half a dozen costs about 5 euros, just under 3.5 pounds) and take them with you. If you come to Lisbon you can’t miss out on these!
Periquita – Those of you who make it all the way up to Sintra, one of the most beautiful parts of Portugal (especially in Spring where flowers are in bloom!), you can find a couple of palaces, beautiful parks and great places to eat and drink (best places are where locals go, no matter how dreary they look). The ‘Pastelaria Periquita’ has its infamous pastry, the ‘travesseiro”. It’s a thin puff pastry with an sweet eggy inside; you can find this in other coffee or pastry shops but there it’s by far the best. Not hard to find since it’s in the centre on the ‘rua das padarias’ and trust me, if you’re walking up and down Sintra all day you’ll welcome a snack. There’s others you can try (the ‘Queijadas de Sintra’ for example). I’ve been told this place has a story to it as well though you’ll have to ask someone there since I don’t know what it is!
A Brasileira – Probably central Lisbon’s most famous café, at one time frequented by one of the country’s most notable poets, Fernando Pessoa, and you can see a bronze statue of him sitting just outside the café. Not exactly much to do with pastries but I couldn’t miss this one out, it’s a one of those places you should stop by for a cup of coffee and a cake when you visit the sites in Lisbon (it’s a bit more pricey than the usual cafés in Lisbon, but you can spoil yourself once no?) especially if you go up to Chiado (where the café is) and Bairro Alto. Ask anyone there where the place is and you’re sure to find it (though I warn you, we’re notorious for giving bad directions)!
Restô do Chapito – If you venture all the way up to the castle of ‘São Jorge’ on the highest hill in Lisbon you’ll find this bar/restaurant at the foot of the castle. More of a good place for a meal or a snack but with a stunning view of Lisbon city you don’t find anywhere else. It’s actually on the premise of a performing arts school where you sometimes get shows on or live jazz music, I haven’t actually seen one myself but I heard they’re fun to watch (there’s dancing, juggling, acrobatics, clowns, etc). The food (international and local) and coffee are good although the price is above average. I’m recommending it for the view, oh and the flaming ‘chouriço’ sausage!
Casa dos Queques – A lot harder to find but worth it if you like the Portuguese version of the muffin (called a ‘Queque’, from the word ‘cake’ in English), if they’ve just come out of the oven they almost melt in your mouth. The address is ‘Rua José Relvas’ in Parede, opposite to the “Junta da Freguesia de Parede”, you’ll have to ask around since it’s a small place. Again you can ask for them individually or in a box (I always bring some back to the UK with me since my friends love them, I’d be shipped back to Portugal if I didn’t hehe)
O Bule – this place is also a bit more obscure but I used to go there for lunch when I was in my final year at school. Good place for sandwiches/toasties and a coffee after; if you smile nicely they can make the sandwich to your liking. They also have great desserts; I especially recommend the honey and cinnamon cheesecake when they have it on offer, wonderfully yum. It gets pretty full at lunch-times and after about 3pm because of the kids leaving the school or teachers going for lunch, but later or in between is usually fine. It’s in São Domingos de Rana a stone’s throw away from “St. Dominic’s International School” entrance (the school is about 5 mins aways from Oeiras Parque by car) – mind you though there’s two entrances so be careful not to pick the wrong one!
You might not like some of these but all these places offer more than their signature pastries or dishes (be warned: if you’re watching your waist you may want to avoid temptation) and if you aren’t really a sweet-tooth then an afternoon snack of a ‘tosta mista’ (cheese and ham toasty, usually with lots of butter but you can ask for it without) could go well with your daily caffeine fix, trust me there’s a lot to choose from anywhere you go. I thought I’d just share some of these places with the rest of you folks, I love them all and hope you enjoy them just as much if you get the chance to visit. What places in your city do you find boast that little bit extra? (eh… sorry for the long post, passionate about these things you know )