Just installed the HotTop "P" upgrade boards

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Just installed the HotTop "P" upgrade boards

Postby JonS » Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:25 pm

I know these have been around for a while, but I also know that many folks sold their basic Hottop models and bought the new "P" ones, rather than doing the "at your own risk" upgrade. So I figured I'd post my experience in case it was useful.

My HotTop was used a lot for about 6 months from new last year, and then I put it in the cupboard, deciding to let Steve do the hard work of roasting for me. Primarily, I did this because I was having so many problems with my shots, that I just needed to junk some variables out of the equation while I put the world to rights.

But I digress. Anyway, my shots are a lot better now and I was wanting to get back to roasting. For a long time, I'd wanted to mod my hottop with my own control circuit, probably laptop-based, but I knew it would be a decent sized project, and my day job and kids just eat up too much of my time right now. So the "P" upgrade at a lower price than it was originally, seemed like a good idea to gain a bit / a lot more control.

Electronics doesn't scare me, and I'm handy with tools, so I figured I ought to be able to do it.

Anyway, I figure I can summarise the experience as follows:

The high points:

1. It works ! First test roast went through fine. And I actually programmed it with a small child under one arm (not essential to the process) and without the user manual. Although my backround in lifting small children and programming stuff, probably helped there :wink:

2. I think it took about an hour and a half to install the upgrade.

3. Mine was the easier version of the install because my HotTop doesn't have the chaff tray safety switch, which can necessitate some extra work to rewire

The low points:

1. For the price of the upgrade, you'd think the manufacturers could provide a printed copy of the installation instructions

2. Ditto the operating instructions, although I kind of get the impression the upgrade boards were out before the manual was actually finished.

3. There's a bit of a gap in the instructions when it comes to removing the base of the HotTop, which you need to do to access all the fixing screws for the internal circuit board. Basically, it tells you to remove 4 screws in the base, 2 of which are obscured by the rubber feet. And then gently wiggle the top and base apart ensuring that you don't pull or trap any wires.

i) They don't mention the fact that there is an earth wire which connects the mains lead anchored to the base, to some metalwork in the top half. This needs unscrewing before you will be able to get the 2 halves apart. (And putting back afterwards!)

ii) Because of the way (i) is done, you also need to cut some cable ties on the wiring harness, which will need replacing at the end.

iii) They also don't mention that apart from the screws, there are some plastic lugs effectively anchoring the base to the top, at the top corners of the plastic panel underneath the bean exit chute. These are pretty hidden and are not that strong. When I eventually found them, it transpired that the best way to unhook the lugs from their receptacles was to unscrew the screw on the control panel side which becomes visible when you remove the control panel (middle left looking at the control panel) and the one at the same place on the opposite side of the HotTop, obscured by a rubber plug. This allows you to ease the sides out and the lugs come free. But you wouldn't get any of this from the instructions !

Turns out, despite my care, and my realisation that there must be something else anchoring top and bottom, I'd weakened one of these lugs, and it rewarded me by snapping when I came to put it all back together again. And I was very careful to try and avoid this. Though you can't actually tell this has happened, everything is tight after I put it back together.


Other than that, it's not a hugely onerous process. The electronics part is actually relatively easy really, as you're just replacing wires to the same numbered points on the new board, removing and reconnecting the earth wire, and fitting some new cable ties. As I mentioned briefly, I didn't need to worry about the extra steps for the chaff safety switch, so I can't comment on that. The hardest part for me, was separating the 2 halves of the machine, and it's a shame that this part is so poorly documented - it just took me ages.

Initial impressions of the new version are very favourable, although I wondered if they could have actually made the UI more streamlined to require a less fancy screen and programming, and maybe charged a lot less for it ! Perhaps I really should design my own version :wink:

If anyone is contemplating the upgrade board route and wants to ask me anything else about the install, then just shout.

Jon
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RE: Just installed the HotTop "P" upgrade boards

Postby GeorgeW » Tue Mar 11, 2008 4:17 pm

That's a really useful post Jon. Didn't you do well.
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RE: Just installed the HotTop "P" upgrade boards

Postby bruceb » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:02 pm

Thank you very much Jon! That's a great post. Did you take any pictures? Can you say anything about what it took to split open the machine...just in case? Thanks.
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Re: RE: Just installed the HotTop "P" upgrade boar

Postby JonS » Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:34 pm

bruceb wrote:Thank you very much Jon! That's a great post. Did you take any pictures? Can you say anything about what it took to split open the machine...just in case? Thanks.


Sadly, the only pics I took at the time were of parts of the wiring, I think I have enough to illustrate the earth wire and cable ties bit.

And probably enough to roughly illustrate where the lugs are on the inside, although you can't actually see them. I can take some shots of the outside to show which "extra" screws I was talking about, though.

I'll post what I have so far in this thread, and see what else I can shoot.

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Postby JonS » Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:43 pm

Picture showing very back of HotTop with rear cover removed to show the internal power board.

At the far right, you can just see the 3 (brown, blue, green/yellow) wire mains cord coming in, with a strain relief clamp on it (just next to slivered metal subframe)

The problematic earth wire, which cannot otherwise be freed from the base, unlike the rest of the wiring harness, is tied to the harness by one of the cable ties which need to be cut.

Dark gray coloured metal in the top middle-ish of the picture is the back of the bean exit chute into the cooling tray.
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Postby JonS » Tue Mar 11, 2008 10:54 pm

A bit further up this time, still in the back of the machine.

Bottom left, you can see the top half of the wiring harness shown in the previous pic, with the second cable tie that needs cutting to free the earth wire.

The earth wire itself is a little lost in the shadows, but it's screwed to the horizontal metal plate you can see running across the lower middle of the picture. The actual anchor point is the shiny screw just to the right of the black box and loop of red heater wire. It's a bit difficult to get a screwdriver in at the right angle for this screw as the top of the hottop gets in the way.

Other parts of note:

1. The eject solenoid is the brassy coloured square just left of middle in the picture.

2. The large circular object top middle of picture is the drum motor

3. The rainbow coloured multi wire connector bottom left, is the lead which connects to the control panel.

Note: This pic and the previous pic are showing the old power board before replacement.

I really must apologise for the poor quality of these shots. I wasn't aiming for shots which were level or composed well, just trying to make sure I knew where all the wires went. At least the lighting is dramatic, ahem.

More shots to follow
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Postby JonS » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:08 am

Rear of HotTop, filter removed. Note white "Quality Control" sticker covering a screw at the bottom right corner, which I had to pierce to get to the screw to take the back off
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Postby JonS » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:11 am

Rear of HotTop, fan assembly removed. Fan wire and connector block, which must be separated and fed back through the gap into the HotTop
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_K9B1834 12.jpg
HotTop fan assembly
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Postby JonS » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:13 am

HotTop rear, rear cover removed
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_K9B1839 9.jpg
HotTop rear internal view 2
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_K9B1838 11.jpg
HotTop rear internal view
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Postby JonS » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:17 am

Earth wire detail
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_K9B1846 7.jpg
HotTop internal earth wire detail
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Postby JonS » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:20 am

Condensed coffee gunk on motor

Ejection solenoid detail
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HotTop coffee gunk, ejection solenoid detail
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Postby JonS » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:27 am

Approximate location of impossible-to-find lug (white circle near left hand side) which needs unhooking when separating base and top sections to remove circuit board. The second lug, is at the same place on the opposite side of the machine

Exit chute is the silver block in the middle of the pic
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_K9B1852 3.jpg
HotTop. Detail of plastic lug
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Postby JonS » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:31 am

Detail of screw positions which you really need to unscrew so you can flex the side panels out and free the plastic lugs either side of the exit chute, when separating the top and base.
Attachments
_K9B1855 1.jpg
HotTop. Approximate location of other side panel screw, normally hidden behind control panel. Lava Lamp optional
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_K9B1854 2.jpg
HotTop. Detail of screw normally hidden by rubber cap.
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Postby JonS » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:56 am

Anyway, I hope these pics will be useful. I actually took the HT apart again to shoot them, and I have some things to add:

1. Without the drum removed, the HotTop is a lot heaver (d'oh!) I have numerous cuts to my hands from the exposed sharp metal edges on the rear of the machine to prove this, after lugging it around on the desk for the photos !

2. I wouldn't like to have to remove that fancy control panel. Even with the back off, and access to some of the lugs that hold it in, it's a real toughie. The other panels were easier, but this one is more vulnerable to damage due to the huge glass screen

3. Even knowing where the plastic lugs are that hold the top to the base, they're pretty much invisible until you start separating the top and base parts. I didn't repeat this exercise for the photos, I'm afraid

Hope these extra photos will be of use to those considering the upgrade or just curious about their HotTop :D

Jon
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Postby bruceb » Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:55 am

Wow! Thanks. Very useful information and good pictures.

I'm a bit worried, however. If you don't want to remove the fancy control panel how are you going to do the next upgrade to the "New Completely Manual Professional HotTop" coversion? :shock: :lol: :lol:
Three Francesconi (CMA) espresso machines - Rossi, San Marco, LaCimbali, Faema and 2 Mazzer Major grinders- CoffeeTech Maggionlino, Hottop, Alpenröst and HW Precision roasters.
I decided I needed a bit of a change so I roasted some Monsooned Malabar. That was a change!
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