a Jordanian's technique for making coffee

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a Jordanian's technique for making coffee

Postby cleverdic » Mon Feb 02, 2004 1:20 pm

I have just had an interesting visitor from Jordan who proceeded to demonstrate his way of making coffee which I thought I would share with you.

I had been showing him my Rancilio S24 and mentioned that I also roasted coffee. I asked him if he had seen green beans before and he said that in fact, he was brought up with making coffee daily directly from green. He then proceeded to show me his daily ritual.

Typically, the boss of the household in Jordan would have the responsibility to roast beans using basically a pan with a very long handle which is placed in a fire. The beans would be agitated using a wooden implement also with a long handle. For my demonstration, we used a cast iron fying pan and placed onto the dry surface around 50 grams of green. (I chose a Monsoon Malabar gold blend for no particular reason.) Apparantely, we could have roasted much more in the same pan if we had wanted to. The beans were simply stirred in the pan for around 15 minutes over a low heat using a wooden spoon until the beans were a light brown colour. This was important to prevent any beans from burning. I would equate it to the point just after cinnamon or Agtron level 65. A couple of beans went into first crack. At this point, the beans were emptied onto a plate and cooled for about 15 minutes. The smell during this roasting was pleasant and not obtrusive; almost chocalatey and nothing like the roasting smell from my popper. There was no chaff at all expended during the roasting although some waste was separated from the beans during the cooling period.

We then ran the beans through the grinder at the same setting I use for espresso blends. My Jordanian friend felt the ground beans were in fact just a little too light so we added a couple of teaspoons of an espresso blend I had just made. The reason for the lightness is actually because we chose a blend with beans having different roasting profles in the pan so we had to stop roasting a little earlier to stop some of the beans from burning.

In the meantime, we boiled some water in a small copper jug we actually use to pour cream (I can get accurate measurements later) and then poured about 4 teaspoons of the ground coffee into the boiling water along with quarter teaspoon of sugar to take the edge of the bitterness and allowed it to boil for a further couple of minutes. We then poured the brew into some espresso cups and drank the result black. It was actually very good. It was not nearly as strong as espresso but it did have a full body and a pleasant aftertaste. At this point, I have to apologise for my lack of eloquent and incisive taste descriptions. This is not my strong point :cry:

He calls this coffee "ahwe sada" which translates into "coffee pure" and it is drunk in Jordan as often as the great UK public drink instant. As he is in this country, it is difficult for him to practice his technique so he has pre-ground coffee in the style described above sent over every few months. maybe a kilo or 2, and stores 250 gram bags in the freezer which he takes out as required. He drinks this coffee every single morning.

After we drank the coffee, we went onto reading the coffee residuals, as in reading tea leaves, but thats another story.

Richard
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Postby moccafaux » Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:47 pm

Sounds a good way to drink coffee. I will give it a try. It reminds me of the way a turkish mocca is drunk: A jug with a vey small opening (ca 5cm) is filled with water, the coffee is placed on the waters surface and then its heated to boil. After a couple of minutes the jug is removed, left standing to make the ground sink and then poured in small cups.
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Postby Ian » Fri Feb 06, 2004 12:30 am

My family lived in Cyprus for a while, when the old boy was in the RAF and the Turks (& Greeks) there used to make Turkish coffee in a similar way using an ibrik. They didn't roast but bought packets of preground. I don't recall the exact recipe but think it was equal spoons of coffee to sugar. The boil up part was done several times depending on how strong you wanted it. Could be described as an acquired taste.

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Postby Raf » Fri Feb 06, 2004 12:09 pm

Acquired taste, I'm not sure: I liked it almost immediately. Because it is ground so finely, it has more or less the texture of very dark chocolate milk. Too bad I don't have an Ibrik/can't grind fine with my rocky, but I will try this when I get the MM.
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Postby gruff » Sun Feb 22, 2004 9:16 am

I agree with Neku on this. Whilst in Cyprus recently I liked the coffee immediately. It is different to what I was used to, and needs to be heavily sweetened. I also liked the custom of serving it with a glass of iced water. I was told that historically this arose because putting poison in the coffee was the preferred method of assassinating Sultans, and that a small amount of water "floated" on the top of the coffee would (to the trained eye!) reveal the presence of any poison. I don't know if it's true, but a nice story anyway.
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Postby maurice » Sun Feb 22, 2004 1:19 pm

My partner and her mother who lives with us are Greek and consume large amounts of Greek coffee - but would never boil the coffee, let alone repeat-boil it. It is heated until the coffee begins to rise in the 'briki', so that the surface is covered in bubbles/foam. You might let it cool for a couple of seconds and then repeat, but you don't let it actually boil otherwise you lose the foam. Its then poured, so that each cup gets an equal share of the foam. A boiled coffee would be chucked away with much tutting of disapproval!
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Postby phil » Sun Feb 22, 2004 2:51 pm

When I lived in Sweden for a while one of my Swedish friends was very keen to get me to taste "Swedish Coffee". It turned out that this meant it had to be boiled. It was truly awful. Sorry Ragnar, whereever you are!

Maybe if our Swedish member Tommy ever makes himself known he can comment on this?
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