We often make statements and express opinions about things that we may or may not have really verified for ourselves. I have often written that the espresso machine is the least important link in the espresso chain, that the quality of the beans and the grinder are more important. This last week I decided to test this statement for myself. For the last 10 years I have been using commercial quality grinders and espresso machines for my home espresso making. Recently, a friend returned a small Solis SL90 home espresso machine that I had loaned him 9 years ago. The machine is old, but in very good condition. It is a very nice little machine and I remember using it to my full satisfaction many years ago, but how would I do with it now?
It took a bit of getting used to the smaller portafilter, but the double basket easily holds 16g of coffee so that wasn't really a problem. I don't have a very expensive tamper for the Solis, but that is fine since I am of the opinion that anything that fits closely into the basket can serve as a fine tamper.
The machine does have one big advantage. It only takes about 5 minutes to get up to temperature whereas my big machines require about half an hour.
So, what about making espresso and how about the results?
After a few practice sessions I can make an excellent espresso with the Solis. I don't even have to change the grind from that which I use with the commercial machines. Using a plain (not pressurised) basket I get lovely, dark crema and very good flavour. All-in-all, when making one or two espressi, or even more, there is no advantage to the bigger machine. I have not measured temperature, I have not measured pressure. I go completely on my own taste. If the temperature was way off or was unstable I would notice the difference in the cup.
Making milk drinks takes some more practice and making a number of them requires a good bit of organisation. In contrast to commercial espresso machines, the Solis has to be preheated in order to make steam. This means making the espressi and then heating the machine and steaming the milk. Steaming does take longer than with a 5-hole tip and a 10 litre boiler, but it is possible to get velvety, shiny milk froth using a 0.5 L milk jug. Steaming in a 1 L jug would be a challenge because of the short length of the steam wand, but certainly the steaming power is adequate. It takes about a minute and a quarter litre of water through the hot water tap to cool the machine down again to make espresso.
One definite disadvantage, the cup heater on top of the machine does not really get warm enough in the short time the machine needs to be heated and even after half an hour the cups must be covered with a tea towel to get them really warm. I am used to having a whole battalion of hot cups and glasses on top of the machine and that is not possible with the Solis. I preheat the cups with hot water from the machine for a minute or two before making the drinks.
The bottom line: At least for the novice coffee enthusiast it is true that the machine is not the limiting factor. There is no need to spend big money on a machine in order to make a good espresso. Of course one can argue about getting the last nuance out of the beans by changing the temperature by 0.1°C, but for anyone just wanting to make a good espresso or espresso-based drink a good, small home machine is fine.
Do not try the above at home unless you have a VERY GOOD grinder and good, freshly roasted beans. For the above tests I used a Rossi R45 with relatively new burrs and a home-roasted blend of Brazilian and Honduras coffees.